In his first public appearance as pontiff, León XIV surprised by recovering traditional elements of papal attire that had been sidelined by his predecessor, Pope Francis. The cape, the gold-embroidered stole, and the gold pectoral cross were prominent features of the outfit he presented on May 8, 2025, from the central balcony of St. Peter's Basilica.
The new pontiff thus adopted a more solemn and symbolically rich style, in contrast to the image of sobriety and austerity projected by Francis in 2013. On that occasion, the Argentine pope appeared only in a white cassock, a simple cape, and a metal cross, without a cape or stole, as a gesture of humility and closeness to the faithful.
During his brief presentation, León XIV also wore a linen rochet with lace up to the knee, a gold cross hanging from a cord of the same color, and the traditional white zucchetto. His outfit, crafted by the historic tailor Gammarelli — responsible for dressing popes since 1798 — not only represented a return to tradition but also carried a strong symbolic and economic weight.
Each item of the papal clothing has a particular meaning, but also an estimated cost:
- White cassock: around 600 euros - White moiré silk sash with golden fringes: about 400 euros - Linen rochet with lace: around 300 euros - Red cape, a symbol of papal authority: can cost up to 1,200 euros, especially if made with ermine - Gold pectoral cross: its estimated value is 1,500 euros - White zucchetto: about 80 euros - Red stole with gold embroidery, emblem of priestly consecration: can exceed 2,500 euros - Fisherman's ring, a distinctive of the successor of St. Peter: hovers around 3,000 euros, although it is rarely made of solid gold
The estimated total cost of the outfit that León XIV wore during his presentation before the world amounts to between 7,000 and 8,000 euros, depending on the materials used. Although there is no mandatory protocol regarding papal clothing, each pontiff defines the style that will mark his papacy from his first appearance.
In this case, León XIV seems to favor a more traditional and ceremonial image, contrasting with the austerity that characterized Pope Francis during his 12 years of ministry.
